Exploring Antarctica
Danger at Every Turn
The stormy weather had finally subsided, revealing a beautiful sunny morning. The
M/V Ushuaia was now 60 miles southeast of Greenwich Island, near
Astrolabe Island. Eagerly, everyone boarded the Zodiac boats to circumnavigate the island. Being surrounded by pack ice, icebergs, and freezing cold air, all while bathed in sunshine and under a clear blue sky, felt surreal. Numerous penguins, both in the water and on the island, seemed to greet us as the boatman skillfully navigated the small rubber boat through the tight nooks and crannies of the shoreline. It's truly amazing how penguins can leap up to six-foot cliffs at the water's edge to reach their rookeries.
Close up with the pack ice
Experiencing pack ice up close and personal in a Zodiac was vastly different from viewing it from the ship's bridge. Unearthly ice sculptures floated in waters of blue, green, and turquoise, creating a breathtaking scene. The sun shone brightly, yet the cold seeped into our bones from the frozen landscape. Just as the chill began to overwhelm us, the boatman returned us to the ship.
After lunch, the ship sailed south, positioning itself for a landing on the Antarctic mainland. The captain attempted a route close to the mainland, but had to turn back due to unexpectedly thick pack ice. It was a "Shackleton" summer, resulting in unusually cold weather. This necessitated turning northwest to find clear waters before heading south again. However, the new course took us back into the open sea, and the conditions became rough. Consequently, most of us felt unwell.
A frozen and icy world
From my small porthole, I watched icebergs of all shapes, sizes, and colors drift by. When an iceberg struck the ship's side, it produced a loud scraping sound as it slid along the hull. I awoke at 11:30 PM and went to the bridge to check our location. I was relieved to find that we were on schedule to arrive at our planned southern destination. I returned to bed and slept soundly, gently rocked by the pack ice, frozen islands, and the Antarctic continent.
We were awakened from our sleep by an announcement over the ship's intercom system: another tour ship was sinking and had instructed its passengers to evacuate into life rafts. Our ship had turned north on a rescue mission to pick up the survivors! I quickly dressed and went to the lounge, where the other passengers were buzzing with the news. Since none of us knew more than what was announced, our imaginations ran wild. We proceeded to breakfast, where unsubstantiated stories circulated freely.
The ill-fated Explorer
The chief guide clarified the situation for us. The tour ship Explorer had struck an iceberg around 2:00 AM and was taking on water. The captain of the Explorer had decided to abandon ship, and all crew and passengers were in life rafts near the South Shetland Islands. After the Explorer issued a Mayday call, all 15 other tour ships in the vicinity turned and headed towards its last known position. Another ship arrived and rescued everyone while we were en route. Thankfully, there was no loss of life. Our captain then resumed his original course and continued the journey south. This event brought home the stark reality of how remote and vulnerable we are in Antarctica.
Cuverville Island
The weather deteriorated again, making it impossible to stop at our initial planned destination. The captain continued south. The sturdy ship navigated the Gerlache Strait and then turned towards the Antarctic continent. The weather didn't improve; it snowed all day. However, the wind did subside somewhat, offering some respite from the massive waves.
Once at
Cuverville Island, everyone disembarked to explore this spectacular place and its numerous penguin rookeries. The usual landing site was the main beach, but thick and piled-up pack ice forced us to land on a smaller, alternative beach. Heavy snowfall continued, creating a tranquil atmosphere. Unbeknownst to the boatmen, pack ice was rapidly freezing in while everyone was exploring. Ice sheets blocked our return to the ship. The crew used an empty Zodiac to chop a path through the ice. We returned to the ship safely, relieved to be back onboard. What an unexpected and worrying adventure this had been.
Join me for the next part of this incredible Antarctic adventure.
Links:
Ushuaia
Astrolabe Island
Cuverville Island